The pear cut — also called the teardrop cut — combines the rounded base of an oval with a pointed tip, creating a silhouette that is simultaneously elegant and distinctive. In moissanite, the pear cut delivers exceptional brilliance from its brilliant-cut facets, a striking and recognisable silhouette, and a strong finger-elongating effect that has made it one of the most sought-after alternative cuts for engagement rings.
The Structure of a Pear Cut
The pear cut is a modified brilliant cut — its facets are derived from the round brilliant and arranged to maximize light return. It typically has 58 facets. The result is fire and brilliance comparable to a round brilliant, delivered in an asymmetric shape that has one rounded end and one pointed tip.
The tip is the most structurally vulnerable point of any pointed cut. In moissanite, the 9.25 Mohs hardness means the tip is significantly more chip-resistant than in a softer gemstone, but a protective prong at the tip is still standard and strongly recommended.
Length-to-Width Ratio
The proportions of a pear cut determine how elongated or rounded it appears. Common ratios:
- 1.45:1 to 1.55:1: The classic pear proportion — clearly elongated, clearly pointed, the recognisable teardrop silhouette.
- 1.60:1 to 1.75:1: A more elongated pear. Creates a stronger finger-elongating effect. More dramatic on wider fingers.
- 1.30:1 to 1.44:1: A shorter, plumper pear. Less elongated, closer to a rounded teardrop. Suits shorter fingers where extreme elongation is not desired.
Orientation: Which Way Up?
Pear cut rings are typically worn with the point facing toward the fingernail (away from the hand) — this is the conventional orientation and creates the strongest elongating effect. Some wearers prefer the point facing the palm (inward), which is less common but equally valid. The outward orientation is the standard for engagement rings.
The Bow-Tie Effect
Many pear cut stones exhibit a bow-tie effect — a dark shadow across the centre of the stone that resembles a bow tie in shape. This is a natural optical characteristic of some fancy cut shapes (oval, marquise, and pear are most susceptible). It results from light not being returned through the centre facets of a stone cut to a specific depth profile.
A minimal bow-tie is considered acceptable and is present in most pear cuts. A severe bow-tie visibly darkens the centre of the stone and should be avoided. In moissanite, well-cut pear stones are optimised to minimize the bow-tie effect.
Setting the Tip: Why Prong Placement Matters
The pointed tip of a pear cut is the most exposed point of the stone. It requires a dedicated prong at the tip, in addition to prongs along the rounded base. Without tip protection, a single hard impact at the point can chip the stone. Most quality pear cut settings use a V-prong or chevron prong specifically designed to protect the tip while remaining as unobtrusive as possible visually.
Best Settings for Pear Cut Moissanite
- Solitaire (point-up, 5-prong): The classic engagement ring setting for a pear cut. Four prongs at the base, one V-prong at the tip. Clean, maximises light, and the silhouette is fully visible.
- Halo: A halo of smaller moissanite stones around the pear creates additional size and brilliance. The halo protects the tip and sides of the stone as well as enhancing its visual impact.
- East-west solitaire: The stone set horizontally rather than vertically — a contemporary, non-traditional setting that reads as fashion-forward and distinctive.
- Three-stone: A pear centre flanked by two smaller trillion or pear side stones creates a balanced, dramatic three-stone ring.
Finger Shape Compatibility
- Long fingers: All pear proportions work. A longer ratio (1.60:1+) is particularly elegant on a long finger.
- Short or wide fingers: A longer pear ratio (1.55:1 to 1.65:1) creates a flattering elongating effect. Avoid very short ratios (below 1.40:1) on wide fingers, as the shape can appear broad rather than elongating.
- Petite hands: A smaller carat weight in a longer ratio suits petite hands — the elongated shape creates the appearance of a larger stone while remaining proportional.
Why Moissanite Suits the Pear Cut
The pear cut's brilliant facets take full advantage of moissanite's high refractive index and dispersion. The result is a pear cut moissanite with intense fire visible even in the pointed sections of the stone, and overall brilliance that exceeds a diamond of equivalent size and cut in direct light conditions.
Related reading:
Moissanite Shapes & Cuts: Find Your Perfect Style
Oval Moissanite: The Complete Deep-Dive Guide
Moissanite Marquise Cut: The Complete Guide